I have been looking forward to making a bog coat for a long time! It feels like the ultimate combination of archaeology and weaving, and in the aim of making a useful piece of clothing. In fact I think I may make another different bog coat next month – I have a couple of blankets that could be perfect for this.

History

The organic nature of ancient textiles means that they have normally decomposed over time and been lost to the archaeological record.  However, the exception is in bog finds, where the cool temperatures, high acidity and anaerobic (low-oxygen) environment has provided the ideal conditions for preserving this kind of organic material.

Some of the earliest known bog bodies were found in Denmark, including men and women who died 2,000 to 4,000 years ago.  In some cases, clothing was found still more or less intact.  The analysis of these textiles teaches us a lot, and not just about weaving techniques.  We are also able to see the choice of fibres and the method of spinning and processing that turned these fibres into yarn.

Although there are examples from the bog bodies of tunics, legging, footwear, skirts and cloaks, there is no example preserved in the archaeology of an original bog coat.  Rather, the design has been hypothesized based on incomplete scraps of surviving cloth.  But this has not stopped this (legendary?) design from capturing the imagination of crafters, home sewers and fashion houses alike.  The 1960’s “one seam coat” by Balenciaga, and later versions by other designers, were the very same bog coat design that is believed to have been created and worn thousands of years ago.

This inventive design uses a simple rectangle of cloth with just two cuts and two seams.  The simplicity and zero-waste nature of the design seem to have given it a timeless appeal.

http://lizhaywood.com.au/considering-zero-waste-fashion/

Making my bog coat

I decided to use an old blanket that I wove many years ago, since it was almost the right size and weight.

You can see the pattern above.  I decided to taper the sleeves a bit for better fit, and with the excess few inches of length (it would have made a very wide jacket with very long sleeves!)  I created some facing for the neckline and opening at the front.  And that’s about it.  Six wooden buttons and machined buttonholes and I was done.  Of course one further refinement would be to add some patch pockets if there is any cloth left.

It’s surprisingly comfortable to wear – more like a cardigan than a coat!